KMID : 0604520210470010065
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea 2021 Volume.47 No. 1 p.65 ~ p.73
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Development of a Cosmetic Ingredient Containing DHA Derivatives for Anti-inflammation, Anti-wrinkle, and Improvement of Skin Barrier Function
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Lee Mi-Young
Lee Gil-Yong Suh Jin-Young Lee Kyung-Min Lee Woo-Jung Cho Hee-Won Yi Jong-Jae Seo Jeong-Woo Choi Heon-Sik
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Abstract
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It is very important to control the inflammation of the skin because it can develop into diseases such as atopy as well as scarring and aging. In this work, we recently identified the in vitro synthesis of specialized pro-resolving mediators (SPMs) known to control inflammation in the human body and the applicability of cosmetics. Using recombinant protein of lipoxygenase from Glycine max, we succeeded to prepare mixtures of mono- or di-hydroxy DHA named as S-SPMs and used them for in vitro efficacy test. To investigate anti-inflammatory effect of S-SPMs, mRNA level of TNF-¥á and IL-6 were analyzed. Under UVB exposed condition, expression of both were decreased by S-SPMs treatment. And we observed reduced production of nitric oxide (NO) by S-SPMs application under the condition with diesel particulate matter (DPM).
At the same experimental condition, malondialdehyde (MDA) production was decreased by S-SPMs, indicating the inhibitory effect of S-SPMs in lipid peroxidation. In addition, S-SPMs treatment resulted in reduction of matrix metalloproteinases-1 (MMP-1) expression and elevation of procollagen type I synthesis. Together with this, mRNA level of filaggrin and loricrin were increased by S-SPMs, indicating enhancement of skin barrier function. These results demonstrate that S-SPMs is a good candidate to develop as a cosmetic ingredient for anti-inflammation, anti-wrinkle, and improvement of skin barrier function.
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KEYWORD
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specialized pro-resolving mediators, lipoxygenase, anti-inflammation, anti-wrinkle, skin barrier
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